Smugglers Bay Loop Track Whangarei Heads: Coastal Walk, WWII History & a Sheltered Bay

The Smugglers Bay Loop Track is one of the best short walks at Whangārei Heads — a 3 km coastal circuit through Bream Head Scenic Reserve that combines bush, coastal farmland, WWII history and a sheltered bay with golden sand. It’s accessible enough for most people, but interesting enough to hold the attention of those who’ve done bigger walks in the area.

Practical Information

Location Bream Head Scenic Reserve, Whangārei Heads
Distance 3 km loop
Time 1.5–2 hours
Difficulty Easy to moderate — some moderate climbs and steps
Carpark Urquharts Bay Road, Whangārei Heads
Facilities Toilets at carpark
Swimming Yes — Smugglers Bay beach is usually calm and suitable for swimming
Cost Free
Managed by Department of Conservation

About the Track

The loop starts from the Urquharts Bay Road carpark at Whangārei Heads and travels through a mix of coastal bush, open farmland and headland terrain before dropping down to Smugglers Bay beach. The bay itself is sheltered, with a sandy beach that’s usually calm enough for swimming — a good spot for a rest and lunch stop halfway through.

A short detour to the end of Busby Head is well worth the extra few minutes. From the headland you get sweeping views across to the Hen and Chick Islands, back along the Whangārei Harbour entrance, and south over Bream Bay.

The track passes the remains of WWII gun emplacements — concrete installations built to defend the harbour entrance during the Second World War. These are among the best-preserved examples in the Northland region and give the walk an interesting historical dimension alongside its natural setting.

What Visitors Say

“The gun emplacements are fascinating — you don’t expect military history on a coastal walk like this. The beach at the end is lovely and usually quiet. Easy walk but really rewarding.” — Tartan Coconuts travel blog

“Beautiful easy walk — took the kids and they loved exploring the gun emplacements. The Busby Head viewpoint is excellent. Smugglers Bay beach is gorgeous, calm water perfect for swimming.” — TripAdvisor reviewer

Where to Learn More

DOC — Smugglers Bay Loop Track has the official track description, carpark directions and facilities information.

AllTrails — Smugglers Bay Loop Track has GPS maps, elevation profiles and over 400 user reviews with recent track conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Smugglers Bay Loop Track suitable for children?
Yes — the track is suitable for older children who are comfortable with some climbing and steps. The WWII gun emplacements are particularly engaging for kids. Young children may find the steeper sections tiring.

Can you swim at Smugglers Bay?
Yes. The bay is sheltered and the beach is usually calm, making it suitable for swimming. There are no lifeguards — swim with care.

Where do I start the Smugglers Bay Loop Track?
From the Urquharts Bay Road carpark at Whangārei Heads. Toilets are available at the carpark.

What are the WWII gun emplacements?
Concrete artillery installations built during World War II to defend the entrance to Whangārei Harbour. They’re among the best-preserved examples in Northland and can be explored safely on foot.

Is there a shortcut to Smugglers Bay?
Yes — there’s a more direct route over the hill to the bay that takes about 15 minutes, cutting out the loop. But the full loop is worth doing for the Busby Head views and the gun emplacements.

What else is nearby?
The Urquharts Bay carpark is also the end point of the full Te Whara Track — a hard full-day ridge walk for those wanting a bigger challenge in the same reserve.

See all walks in the district on our Whangārei walking tracks page.