Russell is a small waterfront settlement on the eastern shore of the Bay of Islands, reached by a short passenger ferry from Paihia. It was New Zealand’s first permanent European settlement and, briefly, the country’s first capital — known in its rowdy early days as “the Hell Hole of the Pacific” for its lawless reputation among whalers and traders. Today it’s one of the most pleasant and historically rich small towns in Northland: quiet streets, a well-preserved waterfront, New Zealand’s oldest surviving church and enough heritage to fill a slow afternoon.
Practical Information
| Ferry from Paihia | Passenger ferry from Paihia Wharf — ~15 minutes |
|---|---|
| Ferry frequency | Regular departures throughout the day |
| Distance from Whangārei | ~95 km north; 1 hour to Paihia then ferry |
| Russell Museum | Fee applies — check russellmuseum.org.nz |
| Pompallier Mission | Fee applies — check heritage.org.nz |
| Flagstaff Hill walk | Free, ~30 min return |
| Facilities | Cafés, restaurants, shops on the waterfront |
About Russell
Russell — known to Māori as Kororāreka — was the first place in New Zealand where Europeans settled permanently. By the 1830s it was a rough-and-ready port town frequented by whalers, sealers and traders, with a reputation for drinking and lawlessness that earned it the nickname that has stuck. The signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 at nearby Waitangi marked the beginning of formal British governance, and Russell — briefly designated the capital — was soon overtaken by Auckland.
Christ Church, built in 1836, is New Zealand’s oldest surviving church. It still bears bullet holes in its wooden walls from the Flagstaff War of 1845, when Ngāpuhi rangatira Hōne Heke repeatedly felled the British flagpole on the hill above town. The churchyard contains the graves of early European settlers and is worth a quiet walk through.
Pompallier Mission (1842) is a rare example of a rammed-earth (pisé) building from the colonial era, built by French Catholic missionaries and now managed by Heritage New Zealand. It operated as a tannery and printing press and has been restored to its 1850s appearance. The Russell Museum covers the town’s maritime and colonial history with a well-presented collection including a one-fifth scale model of Cook’s Endeavour.
Flagstaff Hill
A short walk above the town leads to Flagstaff Hill (Maiki), where Hōne Heke felled the British flagpole four times between 1844 and 1845 in protest at Crown sovereignty — acts that triggered the Flagstaff War. A replica flagpole stands today. The walk takes about 15 minutes each way and the views across the bay to Paihia and the surrounding islands are excellent.
Where to Learn More
Opening hours, entry fees and information on the collection covering Russell’s maritime and colonial history.
russellmuseum.org.nz
Visitor information and background on this rare rammed-earth mission building from 1842.
heritage.org.nz
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Russell from Paihia?
A passenger ferry runs regularly from Paihia Wharf. The crossing takes about 15 minutes. A vehicle ferry also crosses from Opua, south of Paihia, but for a day visit the passenger ferry is the easiest option.
Is Russell worth visiting for half a day?
Yes — a half-day is ideal. Christ Church, Pompallier Mission, the museum and Flagstaff Hill fill 3–4 hours comfortably, with time for lunch on the waterfront.
What is the Flagstaff War?
A series of conflicts in 1845 triggered when Ngāpuhi rangatira Hōne Heke felled the British flagpole on Maiki Hill four times in protest at Crown sovereignty over the Bay of Islands. It was one of the first major armed conflicts between Māori and the Crown after the Treaty signing.
Are there good cafés in Russell?
Yes — the waterfront has a handful of cafés and restaurants with water views. Options are more limited than Paihia so arrive at a reasonable hour, especially in summer.
Can I walk from the ferry wharf to all the main sights?
Yes. Russell is a small town and all the key sites — Christ Church, Pompallier, the museum and Flagstaff Hill — are within easy walking distance of the ferry wharf.
Plan the full day using the Day Trips from Whangārei hub, or see the guide to Paihia and the Bay of Islands to combine both in one trip.