Last updated June 2026
Russell is a small waterfront settlement on the eastern shore of the Bay of Islands, reached by a short passenger ferry from Paihia. It was New Zealand’s first permanent European settlement and briefly the country’s first capital, known in its early days as the Hell Hole of the Pacific for its lawless reputation among whalers and traders. Today it remains one of Northland’s most pleasant and historically rich small towns, with quiet streets, a well-preserved waterfront, New Zealand’s oldest surviving church and enough heritage sites to fill a relaxed afternoon or longer stay.
Practical Information
| Ferry from Paihia | Passenger ferry from Paihia Wharf, crossing takes about 15 minutes |
| Ferry frequency | Regular departures throughout the day, year-round |
| Distance from Whangārei | Approximately 95 km north via State Highway 1 to Paihia, then ferry |
| Russell Museum | Entry fee applies; check opening hours on site |
| Pompallier Mission | Entry fee applies; guided tours available |
| Flagstaff Hill walk | Free, approximately 30 minutes return |
| Facilities | Cafés, restaurants and shops along the waterfront |
About Russell
Russell, known to Māori as Kororāreka, was the first place in New Zealand where Europeans settled permanently. By the 1830s it had become a rough port town frequented by whalers, sealers and traders, earning its notorious nickname. The signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 at nearby Waitangi marked the start of formal British governance, after which Russell briefly served as the capital before Auckland took over.
Christ Church, built in 1836, is New Zealand’s oldest surviving church. It still bears bullet holes in its wooden walls from the Flagstaff War of 1845. The churchyard contains graves of early European settlers and offers a quiet place for reflection.
Pompallier Mission (1842) is a rare surviving example of a rammed-earth building from the colonial era. Built by French Catholic missionaries, it once operated as a tannery and printing press and has been restored to its 1850s appearance by Heritage New Zealand. The Russell Museum presents the town’s maritime and colonial history, including a one-fifth scale model of Cook’s Endeavour.
Flagstaff Hill
A short walk above the town leads to Flagstaff Hill (Maiki), where Ngāpuhi rangatira Hōne Heke felled the British flagpole four times between 1844 and 1845 in protest at Crown sovereignty. These acts triggered the Flagstaff War. A replica flagpole stands today, and the walk offers excellent views across the bay to Paihia and the surrounding islands.
What Visitors Often Say
Russell feels like a peaceful step back in time with its historic buildings, waterfront cafés and relaxed atmosphere. Many enjoy combining a ferry trip with visits to the church, mission and museum before a gentle stroll up Flagstaff Hill for panoramic views.
Visitors appreciate the compact layout that makes everything walkable from the wharf and note the friendly small-town vibe with good dining options right on the water. The heritage sites provide plenty of stories without feeling overwhelming.
Where to Learn More
Heritage New Zealand – Pompallier Mission: Details on visiting this restored 1842 mission building and its history.
Russell Museum: Information on opening hours, entry fees and the museum’s collection of maritime and colonial artefacts.
NZHistory – Pompallier: Background on the French mission and its role in early New Zealand history.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Russell from Paihia?
A passenger ferry runs regularly from Paihia Wharf. The crossing takes about 15 minutes. A vehicle ferry operates from Opua, but the passenger service is simplest for day visits.
Is Russell worth visiting for half a day?
Yes. Christ Church, Pompallier Mission, the museum and Flagstaff Hill comfortably fill three to four hours, with time for lunch on the waterfront.
What is the Flagstaff War?
A series of conflicts in 1845 triggered when Ngāpuhi rangatira Hōne Heke felled the British flagpole on Maiki Hill four times in protest at Crown sovereignty. It was one of the first major armed conflicts after the Treaty of Waitangi.
Are there good cafés in Russell?
Yes. The waterfront has several cafés and restaurants with water views. Options are more limited than in Paihia, so plan accordingly in peak season.
Can I walk from the ferry wharf to all the main sights?
Yes. Russell is compact and all key sites are within easy walking distance of the ferry wharf.
Are tours available at Pompallier Mission?
Yes. Guided tours are offered and provide insight into the building’s use as a tannery and printing press.
Is Russell suitable for families?
Yes. The short ferry ride, historic sites and waterfront walks appeal to families, though some paths involve gentle hills.
For more day trips from Whangārei, see the Whangārei markets hub or related stops at Paihia and the Bay of Islands and Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
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